For the past two weeks, everyone has been talking about the new bookstore, «Ozero,» in Khitrovka. Some were praising the book selection, others the interior design, and some have already dubbed it the Moscow branch of «Podpisnye Izdanija.» Curiosity eventually took over, and after work, we decided to head over to Kitay-Gorod.
It is hard to believe that this place was completely empty not so long ago. Yaroshenko’s House is one of the oldest civil buildings in Khitrovka; its history dates back to the 17th century, long before the square even existed. Following the 1812 fire, a new urban environment formed around it, and several decades later, the old chambers were rebuilt into a tenement house. Shops operated on the ground floor, and rooms were rented out above. After the Revolution, trade disappeared, and in recent decades, the ground-floor spaces remained vacant again, despite restoration efforts.
left: Yaroshenko Shelter on Khitrov Market, 1900s. right: Podkolokolny Pereulok, bldg. 1/11, 1979. photo: pastvu.com
It is strange that it is located right here. In Khitrovka, only bars have opened in recent years. And the street itself is almost always deserted. Yaroshenko’s House, where the bookstore opened today, had stood for many years with boarded-up, white-painted windows. Therefore, as I approached it, I was very surprised by the number of people. And for some reason, I was simultaneously glad that this house finally had life again.
Inside, it was even livelier. Two young women were flipping through an Ai Weiwei album by the shelf of foreign literature, while a young man at a table by the window was reading Brodsky, never putting down his cup of Americano. Someone was already standing at the cash register with a small stack of books, and others had settled down at tables in the cafe.
For the first few minutes, I just wandered between the shelves, observing the space. The historical interior has been preserved almost completely: high vaults, arched windows, and exposed brickwork. The bookshelves look so natural, it seems like the bookstore has always been there. Before I knew it, I had the new Ad Marginem edition of Martin Mittlemeier’s «DADA Century» in one hand and Frank Withford’s «Bauhaus» in the other. A minute later, I was already examining another striking cover on the neighboring shelf. Wait. I only came in to look around. Am I going to end up carrying everything home to supplement my laptop again?
Stepping out onto Khitrovka, I looked back at Yaroshenko House once more. After long years of silence in its windows, the lights were glowing again, and people still stood by the doors. Perhaps it was hard to imagine a better new life for this house.